Working under the car.

[NZ XR6]

I have always found lifting and supporting the front to be a real pain. The last couple of times, I've jacked up under each sill and put an axle stand under the big bolts on the crossmember brace thing behind the main crossmember.

I found a slight variation on that today. If you lift one sill so that a front wheel is just off the ground, then you can (just) get the head of a big trolley jack (mine is 2. something tonne) under the main crossmember. That does make it easier to lift the front and place the axle stands.

I put a block of wood between the crossmember and the head of the jack. It also gives you the option of placing the axle stands under the sills, but I try to avoid the sills after slightly damaging one.

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[GO FURTHER]

... Or you could just spend a bit more and buy a low profile racing jack, so you would not have to first jack up one wheel to get the extra clearance needed.

I bought a new 2 tonne racing jack locally for $190, which is not much more than the higher profile ones you normally find at Supercheap.

[NZ XR6]

I already have 2 trolley jacks in the garage ... But yes, that would be an option.

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[commodorenutt]

For low cars with a deep overhang (like my VL Brocks) I drive up on some 4x2s laid flat, to give enough height for jack access. It's a simple fix that will solve your issue.

[rondeo]

One risk with hydraulic jacks is loss of fluid pressure.
With Chinese crap, it happens.

This risk can be eliminated by using (as I do) a prop or brace between the axle and head of a trolley jack.
This is a million times easier than using an axle stand.

This means jacking up the car and inserting a prop, made of rectangular box section steel, which is made to fit neatly under the head of the jack and to sit on the axle. The exact length of the prop depends on the work reqired, I use a couple of lengths.

As for sill damage I use 3/4 plywood discs. No problem except
when I drive off with one stuck on the sill.

[NZ XR6]

Yes, but quite often you need the jack out of the way to do the work, for example when changing the oil.

What happened to cause the sill damage was one of the wheels of the trolley jack became stuck on a small stone. This resulted in the folded edge starting to bend as the jack was raised. I did notice it starting to happen, so there was only minor damage.

What diameter are your plywood discs?

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[aussiblue]

Hydraulic jack stands are a safer option https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64.../dp/B003ULZGFU

[rondeo]

NZ, I always use two trolley jacks with built in props, these are positioned on the outside so no obstruction under the car.

I increment each jack in turn. Steel props are inserted when the jacks are high enough, then the jacks are lowered onto the props. The props are carefully designed and the end result is a triangle with the trolley jack forming two sides and the steel tube the third. Nowhere to go.

Rotating tyres - two jacks with props on one side at a time. Oil change - two at front. Fuel filter - two at rear. Transmision oil - either four jacks with props or lately one jack with car level on three wheels.

Plywood discs are 80mm to fit jack head.

Blue's link https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64.../dp/B003ULZGFU shows another good idea.

From a safety point of view it could be said two devices (separate jack and stand) would require two simultaneous fails, and would on that account be safer.
On the other hand the propped hydraulic idea would require properly sectioned steel components to shear or crumple. Not likely with 750kg on 2 ton jack.

Incidentally, I bought four Chines trolley jacks at Repco years ago when they were half price. The latest iteration of the same jack has narrower front wheels. 50mm or more wide is good, to my mind.

[Tassie f100]

If you want to work under the car and don,t have to take the wheels off either buy ramps,or even better buy some 200x50 timber and make your own drive on ramps,much safer and probably cheaper than stands,which are not the safest way of holding up a vehicle.

[rondeo]

Agreed. Ramps probably the quickest and safest way when the wheels don't have to be removed, as for oil change etc.
I have the jack levers at half length, saves space and gives my old muscles a go.

[rondeo]

Photo shows prop.

I started cutting the axle end with a holesaw.

In hindsight I' weld some angle iron there to
spread the load, but have been using it for a few years now without issues.

At the other end is a tab made of half a washer,
enough to prevent the prop popping out.

Might be
of interest to DIYers.

You would want to be keen though!

[NZ XR6]

Thanks, I have the same jack. I can see how the bottom works, but what holds the top in place?

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[98TLS]

Originally Posted by GO FURTHER

... Or you could just spend a bit more and buy a low profile racing jack, so you would not have to first jack up one wheel to get the extra clearance needed.

I bought a new 2 tonne racing jack locally for $190, which is not much more than the higher profile ones you normally find at Supercheap.

Thats what i need,awhile back got my first flat for many many years hadnt given it any thought but quickly found out what a pain a much lowered BA GTP is with a flat front tyre on the side of road.

[rondeo]

NZ, there's a tag welded to the prop which fits under the jack head, alternatively the prop is shaped to fit, as on the right in the photo:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/r983aq28my...P2183.JPG?dl=0

WARNING: This setup isn't foolproof. The car may be damaged If the jack is lowered when the prop is not engaged in the head of the jack.

The bottle jack/axle stand combo looks safer in that respect:

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64.../dp/B003ULZGFU

See also:

https://safejacks.com/products/the-r...d-by-safe-jack

and:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azkT6mL_tDQ