Lifting the Essex V6

[Aether]

I just want to know from those who have lifted/handled these engines before, will i be ok using a lift plate attached to the 4 carbi bolts?
Im lifting only the block and auxillaries, no gearbox, clutch, flywheel etc.
I was planning on welding up a basic lift plate out of some leftover metal I had in the pile.

I am only nervous about it because the intake manifold is alloy while the block is quite heavy. Any thoughts appreciated!

[caprispecial]

Get yourself a couple of factory engine hooks such as found on old corollas etc. and bolt these to the centre exhaust port top bolt. Then hook up to a engine crane using some chain.
I woudnt trust the manifold threads in alloy, at least the bolts to the exhaust port are into the head and the pull is sideways to the bolt not straight out.
With the capri its easy to fit the motor and gearbox as one unit. I used three engine hooks , two on the front exhaust ports and one one a rear ex. port, then hooked it up with the chain so that the engine and gearbox was at a bout a 45 degree angle, lower it in and get a helper to guide the gearbox end and finaly to use a trolley jack to raise the rear as the engine is lowered. It might sound scary but if you and helper take your time its easy peasy. You can get it out the same way, it sure beats trying to fit the gearbox from underneath. Cheers,... ron.

[Aether]

I reckon you are 100% right on reflection. Ive decided to lift it off the stand using the top bolts of 4 exhaust ports. As you say they are horizontal and going into the head.

But yeah im not lifting lowering the engine into the engine bay. Im lowering the engine onto my trolley. The car is then lowered over the top of the engine + gearbox (reverse of how I got it out).

I have a trolley that holds the engine, gearbox, crossmember, suspension etc in place while the car is lowered over the top or lifted off, depending.

[allanv6gt]

For others reading this thread.....
That Essex v6 is around 180kg in weight.
I use the bolt holes lower down on the block at the sump skirt and/or the engine mount brackets, then some chain to an adjustable levelling bar over the top.

Bolts at 90deg to the pull angle will put any stresses into the bolt sheer strength equation, which will be much greater than the thread into soft alloy.

Yep, engine and box in one piece is far far easier than getting that box back in from underneath. More things to undo, but far easier and I reckon no slower, unless you are real lucky.
I did both methods in March this year for a gearbox swap (eng+box out/in, then front box oil seal decided to leak, so I took the box-only out/in again). Should have remembered box-only was a right pain, but you forget just how hard it was 20yrs ago...

[Aether]

Ok so all went well

I strapped some chain to the RSJ that holds up my carport/balcony with a padlock to hold up the block & tackle. Then used the exhaust manifold bolts as discussed.

Now its on the trolley I can fit the flywheel etc which has just been machined, fit gearbox etc and start the engine.

Once the car is painted the body will be lowered over the top of the engine and gearbox.

[caprispecial]

Its looking good,...cheers,ron.

[Wiggy333]

Hi I just removed my motor and I used a lifting strap like ones used for cranes because the manual states using chain or rope around the sump for removal. But I reckon ratchet straps would work well to. I used a fork lift with my strap but it came out level quite easily. Keith