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Old 20-04-2009, 02:44 PM   #1
Rakem
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Default car stands + trolley jack

Would car stands rated a 1500KG and a trolley jack rated at 1500KG be sufficient for a BA XR6T??

I want 4 car stands to get the whole thing off the ground and obviously need a trolley jack for it.

The car weighs around 1600KG i think, but four 1500KG stands should do as the weight will be evenly spread across them all..... right?

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Old 20-04-2009, 02:47 PM   #2
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Yep that would be fine.

When you jack up each corner the jack is not taking the full weight of the car so its fine.

Its all within safety specs.
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Old 20-04-2009, 02:48 PM   #3
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yea that will work

as for the jack dont buy one of those Big W type home handy man ones they are as good as usless spend a little more and get a propper 2T workshop jack you'll be much happier in the long run
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Old 20-04-2009, 03:15 PM   #4
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yea, super cheap auto have a few decent ones.

So is it best to get the back or front on the stands first?

I was gonna jack up the whole back end, stick the stands under. Then jack up the whole front end and stick the stands under.

is that the best way to do it?
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Old 20-04-2009, 03:28 PM   #5
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1500kg axle stands would be quite sufficient. You've got to remember that it's only taking the weight of one corner of the car, and the rest of the car is supported by the ground, so the stand is not going to be taking much more than a good few hundred kilos.
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Old 20-04-2009, 03:41 PM   #6
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I found something that comes in real handy is if you drive the front tyres up onto a couple o bits of wood, then jack up the rear and put the rear on stands.

It makes it alot easier to get the jack under the front having that extra couple of inches.


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Old 20-04-2009, 03:51 PM   #7
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I would of jacked the front up 1st as you have more clearance under the rear bar when the front is up than vise-versa.
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Old 20-04-2009, 03:53 PM   #8
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I have to drive my car onto a couple of bits of wood first cause its too low to fit any jack under except the factory jack in the boot.

Make sure you put the axle stands in the correct spots under neath. Don't just whack them anywhere. The spots are located in your car manual.

Don't jack the car up on the sills either cause thats only for the jack in your boot with the slot cut in it.
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Old 20-04-2009, 04:04 PM   #9
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I would also reccomend a 2T Jack, nothing less, I've had several cars fall off the smaller ones.

The Jack stands will be Ok. Although I use/prefer 3T Stands.
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Old 20-04-2009, 04:16 PM   #10
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remember not to jack the back up from under the diff... good on e-series, bad on b-series, the IRS doesn't like it I'm told.
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Old 20-04-2009, 04:21 PM   #11
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So where are the best front and back jack points? The manual only shows the side points.
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Old 20-04-2009, 04:23 PM   #12
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And make sure you put a tyre or something else under the car as a precaution too...Just in case. Jack broke his ankle when the coupe moved when it was up on stands and dropped on him when his foot was underneath it.
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Old 21-04-2009, 11:24 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geez Louise
And make sure you put a tyre or something else under the car as a precaution too...Just in case.

Good idea......

So jack points for front and back.... where are they?
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Old 21-04-2009, 11:28 AM   #14
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me personally i get a bit of wood on the jack and jack the car up by the crossmembers front and rear.

i put the stands on the chassis rails.
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Old 21-04-2009, 02:19 PM   #15
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Default jack points

The jacking points are under the sills but they are for use with the supplied vehicle jack. If using a trolley jack , go under the front crossmember (making sure that the teeth of the jack catch behind the crossmember) and under the diff on the rear. I place the jack stands under the chassis rails.
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Old 21-04-2009, 02:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob20v
and under the diff on the rear.
Doesn't that kill the diff bush on an IRS?

Jack points should be in the maintenance part of the manual.
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Old 21-04-2009, 02:42 PM   #17
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I always jack the front up first for no other reason than I just always have, what ever you do chock the wheels on the ground before you do.

When jacking on the front the cross member (between the wheels is the best point)
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Old 21-04-2009, 02:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowEL2XR8
Yep that would be fine.

When you jack up each corner the jack is not taking the full weight of the car so its fine.

Its all within safety specs.
Try explaining that to Queensland Transport when it coems to load ratings on tyres!
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Old 21-04-2009, 03:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob20v
The jacking points are under the sills but they are for use with the supplied vehicle jack. If using a trolley jack , go under the front crossmember (making sure that the teeth of the jack catch behind the crossmember) and under the diff on the rear. I place the jack stands under the chassis rails.
There is a plate just behind the diff on the IRS - use that to jack, not the actual diff centre.

I always jack the front up first, as the rear will hold on the handbrake. Once the front is in the air, you can then jack up the back without worrying if the car is going to move.
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Old 21-04-2009, 03:54 PM   #20
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Jacking on the diff centre will be ok. The mounts aren't excatly flimsy....
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Old 21-04-2009, 05:23 PM   #21
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Well bought myself a 2000KG trolly jack today from supercheap. $89 down from $129, and some 1500KG stands for $60 a pair.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deech
Jack points should be in the maintenance part of the manual.
only the side jacking points are in there if i remember correctly.
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Old 22-04-2009, 09:40 AM   #22
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Unhappy Jack points

Like Gees said put a wheel under the car just incase I didnt once
jacked up an old Falcon with bottle jacks under each leaf spring and guess what down it came on my wrist and snapped it
just my fault you do learn
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Old 22-04-2009, 10:56 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob20v
The jacking points are under the sills but they are for use with the supplied vehicle jack. If using a trolley jack , go under the front crossmember (making sure that the teeth of the jack catch behind the crossmember) and under the diff on the rear. I place the jack stands under the chassis rails.
I'd be very cautious going on the front crossmember. Being alloy, its prone to cracking... Better of going under the control arm and doing one side at a time
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Old 22-04-2009, 09:52 PM   #24
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Default :confused:

The more I read the more confused I am!!??

Jack the sills - dont jack the sills
Jack the crossmember - dont jack the crossmember
Jack the diff - jack the plate behind the diff

Sound like an argument between 4495 vs 4490. lol!

:
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Old 22-04-2009, 10:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordfalconbaxr6
The more I read the more confused I am!!??

Jack the sills - dont jack the sills
Jack the crossmember - dont jack the crossmember
Jack the diff - jack the plate behind the diff

Sound like an argument between 4495 vs 4490. lol!

:

Agree.
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Old 22-04-2009, 10:09 PM   #26
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easy to work that out car weighs 1600kgs, car stands rated at 1500kgs x 4, jack rated at 1500kg.

The jack is lifting roughly 1/4 of the cars weight, the 4 car stands have a combined Safe Work Load of 6000kgs.
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Old 23-04-2009, 12:23 PM   #27
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Default jacking

This has really opened up a can of worms.
When jacking up a vehicle I always do the front first if only to allow you to get under the low front spoilers on modern cars. I jack up under the front cross member on nearly all vehicles I service even the alloy crossmembers (and have never had one crack). Under the diff on a beam axle is fine and won't damage the watts link (as long as you are not jacking on the link itself. Some vehicles just take a bit of thought and care as some of the newer vehicles don't have the panel strength to take the load of jacking under them. This is why mechanics do apprenticeships to learn how to do these things on different vehicles. 35 years in the trade and you still find some strange things on some vehicles but I have still not had a car slip off a jack or fall off stands, touch wood.
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Old 23-04-2009, 10:14 PM   #28
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The thing I was wondering about was that the jack supplied with the car has a slot where the thin ridge along the bottom of the car sits and there is a slight recess either side of the ridge where the jack sits.

However, with the stands, the thin ridge edge sits on the stand as they do not have a slot. Often wondered if this might bend that thin ridge

Hope that makes sense.
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Old 23-04-2009, 10:57 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordfalconbaxr6
The thing I was wondering about was that the jack supplied with the car has a slot where the thin ridge along the bottom of the car sits and there is a slight recess either side of the ridge where the jack sits.

However, with the stands, the thin ridge edge sits on the stand as they do not have a slot. Often wondered if this might bend that thin ridge

Hope that makes sense.
That slot/ridge is to be used only with the supplied jack. If using stands, its best to put them on the chassis rail
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Old 23-04-2009, 11:24 PM   #30
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anyone else ever have reservations about those stands that lock with angled teeth as you raise or lower their position (commonly referred to as quick release/adjustable). I can't help but feel more comfortable under a stand that has a bolt through it's tube. My old man made a set twice as thick in steel but damm twice as heavy to cart around. But I know nothing will get past those stands.
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