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The Pub For General Automotive Related Talk |
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21-04-2016, 12:24 AM | #121 | ||
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Not the same as a Ford engineer who might have been involved in the design and testing of the engines at manufacturer level..... Automotive mechanic, on the other hand, out of school at 16, 3 to 4 year apprenticeship on fixing cars and classroom theory, then many try to rip you blind when you want your car fixed and half the time don't diagnosis the problem right first time. ... okay I'm generalising
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21-04-2016, 12:54 AM | #122 | ||
Brad
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Ouch to the above. . . . But as a 22 y/o mechanic, personally fuel/oil dilution and excess fuel condensing on cylinder walls and washing isn't an issue for those cars left to idle for a short period of time as the enrichment phase doesn't last very long. Just enough to get it to a stage where fuel wont condensate on cylinder walls. Fuel dilution more seen with those who are constantly cold running their cars especially on short trips.
IMO there is no difference either way for the modern car and modern oils with getting in and driving as they are thin enough to not cause oil starvation issues when cold. Me personally I let it warm up but I live in some -14 temps during the winter. In the summer I dont mind, start then idle down long driveway before slowly driving until up to temp.
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21-04-2016, 09:03 AM | #123 | ||
Au Falcon = Mr Reliable
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Tighter internal tolerances in newer motors + thinner specified engine oils = shorter warmup times afaik.
cheer's, Maka
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Ford AU Series Magazine Scans Here - www.fordforums.com.au/photos/index.php?cat=2792 Proud owner of a optioned keeper S1 Tickford Falcon AU XR6 VCT - "it's actually a better-balanced car than the XR8, goes almost as hard and uses about two-thirds of the fuel" (Drive.com 2007) |
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21-04-2016, 09:14 AM | #124 | ||
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Tolerances need to be tighter for emissions. Also warming quicker helps geeatly with this.
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21-04-2016, 09:26 AM | #125 | |||
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Is it better or does it damage more? call in the mythbusters I think. |
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21-04-2016, 10:04 AM | #126 | |||
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Quote:
A engines spec tolerances have nothing to do with emissions, the pistons nowadays are tighter due to the modern short skirt design only, the crank bearing spec has nothing to do with emissions. The engine does not warm up quicker at all, this has only to do with the cat being put nearer to the engine as too heat it up quicker only and this only helps a bit to lower the emissions from when cold faster. |
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21-04-2016, 08:23 PM | #127 | |||
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Quote:
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21-04-2016, 08:25 PM | #128 | ||
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21-04-2016, 09:05 PM | #129 | |||
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Quote:
".....Warming the engine is not necessary........." Also on page 5 under Running In - ".....Do not allow the engine to idle for excessive periods of time....." On two occasions Ford have stated in the owners manual that either warming the engine or excessive idling is not recommended.
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21-04-2016, 09:23 PM | #130 | ||
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21-04-2016, 09:32 PM | #131 | |||
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On page 259 of my manual it talks about "phone and Bluetooth" In fact there is no section in my manual on "Fuel economy". Yes on page 6 (not page 5) it does say ".....Do not allow the engine to idle for excessive periods of time.....", but you are taking this statement "out of context" to suit your argument. That statement is in and solely related to "running in" the car from new and only for the first 1,500Kms as stated.That has nothing to do with warming up your car once your car has been run in after the 1,500Km mark. |
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21-04-2016, 09:40 PM | #132 | ||
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Yes FG and save for minor calibration changes, the powertrain is the same.
Yes I suppose I have taken statements out of context but what I'm trying to point out is Ford have stated twice that warming up or idling is not required in those two conditions and its safe to assume warming the engine on a cold morning wouldn't be any different.
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21-04-2016, 09:54 PM | #133 | ||
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Mine gets the time between start up, hooking up my phone via bluetooth, picking an album, roller door up and idle out, roller door down then on my way. Take it easy for the first block then drive regularly. Depending on how bad traffic is at the time it may see a bit of boot at an intersection approximately 3km from home
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22-04-2016, 09:57 AM | #134 | ||
George
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I have been monitoring my cars running temps for the last 5 months, mainly to monitor my trans temps since installing an air/oil cooler and have found that the engine warms up quite rapidly from cold when idling or when driving.
I have tried idling for up to 2mins and seen the engine temp get to 60C from as low as 16C in that time, but this is still not the normal running temp and what about all the other components of the car that are not warming up. The trans gets to its minimum optimum operating temp in 3-5mins from cold when driving with or without idling, If I set off without idling intentionally the engine takes up to 10mins to get to its normal operating temp of 90C. Also it could be argued you are wasting fuel whilst not on the move. So based on my experience there is no advantage in idling a modern car, they are designed to warm by driving. The manual talks about not idling for long periods of time because of the hazards of the high temp of the catylitic converter sitting under your car, not for any other reason.
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BFWSM https://www.fordforums.com.au/vbport...articleid=1708 http://fordforums.com.au/wsmpub/ba/501-05.html 2007 BFII Fairmont Ghia I6 4L, ZF6 Auto, Ego Charcoal, Warm Charcoal. R/Up 2019:Winner 2023:, Best BA-BF Geelong AFD. PWR Air/Oil Cooler, K&N, Egas elbow, V8 upper F6 lower CAI. 1997 Fairmont EL Ghia Tickford 4L Auto 1985 Falcon XF GL 4.1L Auto. 1979 Fairmont XD Ghia 4.1L Auto. 1971 Cortina GL Estate 1200cc Manual. Last edited by BFIIGhiaZF6; 22-04-2016 at 10:22 AM. |
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22-04-2016, 10:38 AM | #135 | |||
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22-04-2016, 11:54 AM | #136 | ||
George
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I have, it tends to follow the engine coolant temp.
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22-04-2016, 07:41 PM | #137 | ||
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I have a BF-The oil temp temp given is that a real oil temp or a calculated temp?
mine normally 1 -4 degree more than water temp. and normal temp of 98-105 after 20 km. coolant is between 93-96. with a/c on it stays at 93 but other temps move a little. I recently fitted a coolder thermostat as a test and have watched temp data on scan tool. the auto tans temp was slightly cooler. all other temps eventually get to the same aprox temp-only takes a few extra km to get there.
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22-04-2016, 08:12 PM | #139 | |||
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Also not running an engine at a RPM that it wasn't balanced to run at or at set RPM for extended hours [except Fixed RPM engines]. for a large engine the falcon reasonably smooth. I would suspect that as a taxi fleet engine it was designed with this in mind. Brocken cranks, stretched timing chains and harmonic balancers are not that common. I have worked on loads of other engines that the same cant be said. Lot of engines have resonance issues in mid range RPM. For some reason customers choose to run the engine at that UNSWEET spot to warm up the engine. Had sucseesfull warranty claims for blocks/liners that vibrated, excessive crank bearing clearance that allowed Pinking or oil use and blow by. Often pinking can cause oil consumption or blow by-- but this is not the same as above [chicken or the egg].
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22-04-2016, 10:06 PM | #140 | ||
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FI goes to full rich when cold. You work it out...and UOA's on engines idled show high levels of fuel dilution, not what you want in your oil at any time.
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22-04-2016, 10:11 PM | #141 | |||
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22-04-2016, 10:12 PM | #142 | ||
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22-04-2016, 10:24 PM | #143 | ||
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In the thread referenced earlier one BF XR6 owner said his owners manual stated a 30 second warm up is recommended. So for those who prefer a brief warm up there it is in writing from the manufacturer and for those that don't, well it doesn't matter.
Enjoy your ride
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22-04-2016, 11:32 PM | #145 | |||
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Falcons did not become popular as taxies in Aust until the mid seventies, until then the vast majority of taxies were Holdens.
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23-04-2016, 06:40 AM | #146 | ||
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23-04-2016, 07:44 AM | #147 | ||
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start it, reverse it out of the shed, then drive off reasonably, you don't need to build up air pressure or anything, once you have oil pressure, drive it
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23-04-2016, 08:56 AM | #148 | |||
George
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Quote:
The oil temp reading is from a thermistor, the coolant temp from a sensor in the coolant and the ZF6 fluid temp from a sensor inside the trans. Whilst idling the oil temp barely moves, the coolant temp goes up fairly quickly and the trans temp barely moves. On a 9C ambient morning before starting the engine my oil temp was 15C, coolant 16C and trans fluid 17C. After idling for 1min, engine oil 17C, coolant 37C, and trans 17C. After 5mins driving engine oil 50C, coolant 68C, trans 30C. After 10mins driving engine oil 82C, coolant 92C and trans 40C. Have never seen my coolant above 102C and trans above 65C, that was a 40C day. My oil temp tends to lag the coolant by 20C whilst warming up. My normal runs are only usually 10 -15 mins and I just start up and set off.
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BFWSM https://www.fordforums.com.au/vbport...articleid=1708 http://fordforums.com.au/wsmpub/ba/501-05.html 2007 BFII Fairmont Ghia I6 4L, ZF6 Auto, Ego Charcoal, Warm Charcoal. R/Up 2019:Winner 2023:, Best BA-BF Geelong AFD. PWR Air/Oil Cooler, K&N, Egas elbow, V8 upper F6 lower CAI. 1997 Fairmont EL Ghia Tickford 4L Auto 1985 Falcon XF GL 4.1L Auto. 1979 Fairmont XD Ghia 4.1L Auto. 1971 Cortina GL Estate 1200cc Manual. Last edited by BFIIGhiaZF6; 23-04-2016 at 09:09 AM. |
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23-04-2016, 11:53 AM | #149 | |||
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I don't remember any HQ taxi but some HZ were around and some VH-J Valiant. |
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23-04-2016, 12:22 PM | #150 | ||
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Hello,
Once the early problems were forgotten, the Falcon was the Car to have for mechanical strength and durability. Before the hybrids, most Cabs were Falcons. |
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