synthetic oils

[maddo1]

Since posting my question regarding oil I have changed from a valvoline mineral oil to penrite hpr5 full synthetic and fuel economy has go e from 11.7/100km to 10.3/100km and smoother idle so I'll stick with synthetic

[RASER]

Originally Posted by maddo1

Is there really any advantage to running synthetic oil in my fg engine over mineral oils.. I am a mechanic but still confused!!

I have it from a senior chemist of a oil company [Dawson]

Synthetic oils are a scam and a fantastic cash cow for the OilCo's

They are of only use to very highly loaded stressed engines, so of no use for daily driven vehicles

If they where superior for daily use, car companies would insist you use it, they dont as they have no benefit.

Dawson told me the BEST thing for your engine is to change the oil often, its the only thing that can slow wear

[RASER]

Originally Posted by Ducati888

My old Ducati 900SS commuter used to leak from the seals when I used synthetic oil. I switched to a heavier grade Penrite mineral oil and it stopped leaking. I only use synthetic in my race engines though.

U need to use...

AGIP...Sint2000

Gods own oil!

[RASER]

Originally Posted by maddo1

Well there's a heap of interesting discussion bout oil when all I really wanted to know if benefits in using synthetic on my fg ute would be worth the extra $60 for oil.

NONE

Other than making oil companies even more rich and profitable.

Spend the $60 on a good bottle of plonk for yourself, or some flowers for your other and better half,

[TC200six]

Originally Posted by RASER

NONE

Other than making oil companies even more rich and profitable.

Spend the $60 on a good bottle of plonk for yourself, or some flowers for your other and better half,

So you insist that synthetic oils are a scam, but then you say they are for highly stressed engines meaning they do have an advantage.

[Foylema]

ULX110 is the best oil on the market!!

http://www.ulx110.com.au/

[FreddyDUZ747]

My oil analysis is in from CAT,running ULX110 and ill post it up tonight,pretty happy tbh

[burnz]

cold starts is where you want the oil most.
synthetic is alone in this area, mineral does well but not in the morning..
it's a late sleeper...so tired.

[sudszy]

Originally Posted by RPI

I
If you live in a cold climate synthetic oil has the advantage that it does not thicken when it gets cold. Some years ago I put samples of synthetic oil and mineral oil and cooled it down to about -15C. The mineral oil had become thick and hard like refrigerated honey and would not pour, the synthetic oil had not thickened at all.

were you comparing apples with apples? did both oils have the same winter(W) rating.

Originally Posted by Mr_BA2003

Shell Helix HX7 10w-40 here.

However I think the oil chosen isn't of too much consequence for an everyday driver. At the end of the day the body and all the other components will wear out while you'll have a great engine with no body! .

agree entirely, the last 4 cars Ive got rid 25years old+ of the engines were fine having only been run on the cheapest mineral oil. If its your aim to still be driving around on the original motor in 40 years time, then definitely go syn.
Do I use it, well yes, but only when the price goes South of $30 , $60 - 80 no way, put the extra $ per year towards that rebuild you are going to need in 2050.

Originally Posted by maddo1

Since posting my question regarding oil I have changed from a valvoline mineral oil to penrite hpr5 full synthetic and fuel economy has go e from 11.7/100km to 10.3/100km and smoother idle so I'll stick with synthetic

as for ^, were you comparing apples with apples, the penrite is 5W40, not really a light weight oil, the valvoline was?

[RASER]

Originally Posted by TC200six

So you insist that synthetic oils are a scam, but then you say they are for highly stressed engines meaning they do have an advantage.

Yes, correct, for WOT, ie hours on the race track, but useless for daily drives

Your coin, buy as u want

[Green X]

Last mine i was on were we're putting sinopec oils some Chinese oil brand in all the fleet mostly CAT and Cummins engines running 250hr interval's we just about never got back a bad oil sample even with the somtimes "lazy" oil handling we used on rushed services, even Turbo's in the time i was there we only did 2 turbo's both on a C11 first was a blown comp wheel from oporators doing Hot shutdowns the other from a damaged intake pipe.

so who knows how much smoke a BS is blowing around about the Top Brand oils.

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by FreddyDUZ747

My oil analysis is in from CAT,running ULX110 and ill post it up tonight,pretty happy tbh

How much is that ULX110 oil?

[Foylema]

Originally Posted by Big Damo

How much is that ULX110 oil?

I think $65 for 5L

[FreddyDUZ747]

As promised,this drop had 5000kms on her with 20-30 WOT dyno pulls and low speed tuning.I run a slightly rich tune on E10 100 octane and only see an average speed of 26kmh/r every fill,she sits in traffic idleing alot.

The test came back with some fuel dilution as expected but the other results were good.The tune will be tidied up soon so the next drop should be better.This test was 10w40,my current fill has 10w50.

IRON 9 CHROMIUM <1 COPPER 4 LEAD 3TIN <1 NICKEL <1 ALUMINIUM 2 SILICON 22 MOLYBDENUM 895 SODIUM 10 POTASSIUM <1 BORON 3 CALCIUM 2121 ZINC 980 PHOSPHORUS 1505 MAGNESIUM 13 WATER <0.1 OXIDATION 11 NITRATION 6 SULPHER PRODUCT 16
VSC@100*14.9 VSC@40*83.4 VSC INDEX 188 PARTICLE Q'FYING <1

[pottery beige]

Originally Posted by RASER

Yes, correct, for WOT, ie hours on the race track, but useless for daily drives

Your coin, buy as u want

$70k+ car.. $70 oil is chicken feed...

[castellan]

Originally Posted by burnz

cold starts is where you want the oil most.
synthetic is alone in this area, mineral does well but not in the morning..
it's a late sleeper...so tired.

I think this cold start is a load of rubbish as oil is everywhere in a engine and it does not run off leaving any metal parts dry.
If i had a turbo i would use synthetic or if racing or if is a 2 stroke.

[TMC]

Originally Posted by castellan

I think this cold start is a load of rubbish as oil is everywhere in a engine and it does not run off leaving any metal parts dry.
If i had a turbo i would use synthetic or if racing or if is a 2 stroke.

If you start your motor in the morning and you hear a clack clack clack for a second it has run out of your lifters a bit. The main bearings and big ends may not knock, but the pressure is down until everything pumps up again. If you like starting a motor and immediately taking it to 4000rpm then a quick pump up rate will stop metal on metal contact which would eventually do your bearings in. Most people don't start a cold motor that way, but some do. The guy across the road from me has an AU and he starts that things with a million revs then reverses the thing immediately with wheels spinning and thrashes it down the road within 10 seconds of starting it. Needless to say he leaves in a cloud of blue smoke. Idiot.

[my_gxl]

Originally Posted by castellan

I think this cold start is a load of rubbish as oil is everywhere in a engine and it does not run off leaving any metal parts dry.
If i had a turbo i would use synthetic or if racing or if is a 2 stroke.

Unknowledgeable opinions, such as this, is why they have a market for magnacrap. (magnatec)

[burnz]

Originally Posted by castellan

I think this cold start is a load of rubbish as oil is everywhere in a engine and it does not run off leaving any metal parts dry.
If i had a turbo i would use synthetic or if racing or if is a 2 stroke.

there are no physical bearing in an engine, because the oil under pressure is the bearings.

having oil around the motor doesent work "unless" it's under pressure from the oil pump.
hydrodynamic, look it up.

[castellan]

Originally Posted by burnz

there are no physical bearing in an engine, because the oil under pressure is the bearings.

having oil around the motor doesent work "unless" it's under pressure from the oil pump.
hydrodynamic, look it up.

Rubbish ! oil does not need pressure at all it just has to be there.
But the oil pressure is another thing.
There is always oil on the bearings etc before you start it up as they do not run dry at all.

[castellan]

Originally Posted by TMC

If you start your motor in the morning and you hear a clack clack clack for a second it has run out of your lifters a bit. The main bearings and big ends may not knock, but the pressure is down until everything pumps up again. If you like starting a motor and immediately taking it to 4000rpm then a quick pump up rate will stop metal on metal contact which would eventually do your bearings in. Most people don't start a cold motor that way, but some do. The guy across the road from me has an AU and he starts that things with a million revs then reverses the thing immediately with wheels spinning and thrashes it down the road within 10 seconds of starting it. Needless to say he leaves in a cloud of blue smoke. Idiot.

No oil will help if you flog a cold engine as the main thing is the parts are not at the correct spec.
The mains will never knock unless they are flagged out.
The lifters still have oil and if it they clack it is because it has been siting with a valve open on that lifter and has just bleed out a bit.

[castellan]

Originally Posted by my_gxl

Unknowledgeable opinions, such as this, is why they have a market for magnacrap. (magnatec)

You are right about the magnatec oil it is just a load of bull.

[pottery beige]

wow.. just wow....

[burnz]

Originally Posted by castellan

Rubbish ! oil does not need pressure at all it just has to be there.
But the oil pressure is another thing.
There is always oil on the bearings etc before you start it up as they do not run dry at all.

unbeleivable, you'll learn the hard way!

[my_gxl]

Originally Posted by pottery beige

wow.. just wow....

+1...

[Franco Cozzo]

I use full synthetic in my Focus and my Fiesta, new cars so I'll run good oil in them and hopefully we'll see a long life out of them when they're both serviced on time, every time.

[Pis-ton broke]

I came across an interest write up on the 80 series TUBRO DESIEL land crusier engine. The tubro engines between 1990 and 1994 were suffering bigend bearing failure, yeah they were totally destroid. But when checking the big ends on many of the engines that ran synthenic from new, they were fine and good wear. I can find the link if anyone wants it.

[TC200six]

Originally Posted by maddo1

Since posting my question regarding oil I have changed from a valvoline mineral oil to penrite hpr5 full synthetic and fuel economy has go e from 11.7/100km to 10.3/100km and smoother idle so I'll stick with synthetic

Yeah. Synthetic is noticeably better for sure, even for road use. I used Penrite HPR 10 in my L20B powered Datsun after using 20W-50 because the oil still has a hot rating of 50, but with a lower winter rating of 10. I wanted to use an oil with a lower winter rating because it takes a long time to register oil pressure when cold starting, probably because of its upright oil filter (I know other Datsun engines with upright oil filters taking a long time to register O/P), it didn't fix the issue but the engine now runs cooler when driving with constant air flow from less drag from its engine parts.

I'm assuming the synthetic oils in Penrite's HPR range are only group 3 judging by the price. It makes you wonder what the more expensive group 4 (PAO) synthetics would be like to run.

[TMC]

Originally Posted by TC200six

I'm assuming the synthetic oils in Penrite's HPR range are only group 3 judging by the price. It makes you wonder what the more expensive group 4 (PAO) synthetics would be like to run.

I'm running Penrite 10 tenths racing synthetic 5W-30 which is Class 4 and Class 5 base stock and additives. Maybe a little early, but I seem to have improved economy of around 0.5-1L/100km on the open road. That's in comparison to Penrite Everyday Synthetic 10W-40.

[cupic]

Is it too late using a semi/synthetic grade oil with a BA XR6 04 with 166k's.
Its not as tight as it use to be and would like more protection as its a long term for me. From new I try to change every 6mths regardless of k's unless it more than 15k.Now with travel to the big smoke I want extra protection so its a good grade mineral oil or semi/synthetic oil

cheers