Advice on buying BF Typhoon

[Nikko]

Hey gents,
I'm looking at buying a bf mkII typhoon and just wondering if anyone has any information that I should be aware of when looking at them, anything in particular to look for/avoid with this model? Thanks in advance.

[Road Games]

Diff bushes.. ZF trans service... Castor bushes/ Rotors/ Diff noise...

That's a start unfortunately

cheers

[FORCED F6]

As above and check for your other usual stuff as well as discussed in the previous topic by "raised by monkeys".

[XRQTR]

The best advice I could give anyone is ask the buyer to allow you to have the car checked by yours or an independent mechanic, if they refuse then walk away.
The best place to take it believe it or not is the Ford dealers, they will go right through it because obviously they're going to try to make as much money as they can from you so will go right through the car and quote/report every little issue. I'd still of course get your own mechanic to check it over but make sure they're up with any issues that any car you're looking at has or has had a recall for.
Other than that just use some common sense and never fall in love with something that might/will blind you to obvious problems that you'd pick up with an objective outlook.
Good luck and let us know how you go.

Cheers
Stef

[paule11]

I agree with XRQTR when our factory warranty ran out we took the car to RACQ they did not find much I knew of a problem and they did not find it. Ford found more faults

[Nikko]

Thanks, yeh I'll be on the lookout though it will likely take me quite some time to find the right one seeing as I'm being picky. Want the manual and an interesting colour. R spec is incredibly tempting

[tut0r]

Welcome to the forums!!! Good choice in car too! Xr6menance hit the nail on the head, except the zf service as you're going manual. Diff bushes always go in falcons -_-

[Road Games]

Originally Posted by Nikko

Hey gents,
I'm looking at buying a bf mkII typhoon and just wondering if anyone has any information that I should be aware of when looking at them, anything in particular to look for/avoid with this model? Thanks in advance.

Where is he going manual ??

Originally Posted by Nikko

Thanks, yeh I'll be on the lookout though it will likely take me quite some time to find the right one seeing as I'm being picky. Want the manual and an interesting colour. R spec is incredibly tempting

Ahhhh there it is.. don't mind me as you were

[xxx000]

In Post 6 above

Auto is a much better box for so many reasons and more desireable

[Nikko]

Yeah I'm aware that the auto is a better gearbox, much prefer driving a manual though as far as feel goes. I'm aware it's probably not the better choice but it's what I love

[FPV_Steve]

What price range are you looking to buy one between. Curious as to their value from someone who doesn't own one.

[Nikko]

Standard typhoon maybe 22k, dependant on km's. R-Spec i'd expect to be spending a bit more obviously seeing as there are fewer of them. Not thinking of getting rid of yours are you?

[FPV_Steve]

Originally Posted by Nikko

Standard typhoon maybe 22k, dependant on km's. R-Spec i'd expect to be spending a bit more obviously seeing as there are fewer of them. Not thinking of getting rid of yours are you?

Honestly, I have thought of selling mine a few times over the past few months but just haven't been able to go through with it. See how things go though, might decide to sell it sometime.

[Nikko]

So I'm curious of the opposite perspective then as well. yours is manual, km's? and how much would you be hunting for if you were to put yours up for sale?

[HULK_I6T]

hi,

Id grab a stock one if possible.. A modded one is usally driven VERY hard, then when sold masked up and returned to stock or semi stock.

I have a BF XR6T, bought it stock, drives beautifully. I modded it myself tastfully, I know its all done right, I drive it easy too.

My mate bought a modded BF XR6T and the ZF is all over the shop, it ticks and idles weird. He is always playing with it as its not running right. To fix that ZF will bring the cost upto my car.. they are chalk n cheese quality wise, a ridiculous buy from him.

Its very tempting to get a modded one as they are absolute weapons but id pay more for a stock one and mod it properly yourself. Saving a buck now might cost you ten times later.

[Road Games]

Comments from the supercoach ...

[tut0r]

Originally Posted by XR6menace

Comments from the supercoach ...

Hey mate, message me if you're able! Wasn't able to send you a pm :(

[T4ME]

Originally Posted by HULK_I6T

hi,

Id grab a stock one if possible.. A modded one is usally driven VERY hard, then when sold masked up and returned to stock or semi stock.

I have a BF XR6T, bought it stock, drives beautifully. I modded it myself tastfully, I know its all done right, I drive it easy too.

My mate bought a modded BF XR6T and the ZF is all over the shop, it ticks and idles weird. He is always playing with it as its not running right. To fix that ZF will bring the cost upto my car.. they are chalk n cheese quality wise, a ridiculous buy from him.

Its very tempting to get a modded one as they are absolute weapons but id pay more for a stock one and mod it properly yourself. Saving a buck now might cost you ten times later.

What you have said means your car is now very much the same category as the beaten up/modified ones....where its been tuned can also lowers its value somewhat.

Enjoy her

[FPV_Steve]

Originally Posted by Nikko

So I'm curious of the opposite perspective then as well. yours is manual, km's? and how much would you be hunting for if you were to put yours up for sale?

I would ask for $25k knowing that the diff bushes have just been replaced, 4 new bridgestone eagle f1 asymmetric 2 tyres and some basic performance mods. And the car itself is still in pretty decent shape. All hypothetical atm though.

[Nikko]

Sorry kms? Also what is yours putting out and fuel usage?

[FPV_Steve]

Originally Posted by Nikko

Sorry kms? Also what is yours putting out and fuel usage?

Sorry, just ticked over 125k and I've had it since 82k. Fuel usage is around 13-14L per 100km and use only BP ultimate.

Car put out 308 with nitto invos and 286 with the bridgestone

[Nikko]

Yep yep no worries, sounds like a pretty nice car. I'll certainly be keeping track if you want to pass her on at some point.

[HULK_I6T]

Originally Posted by T4ME

What you have said means your car is now very much the same category as the beaten up/modified ones....where its been tuned can also lowers its value somewhat.

Enjoy her

Somewhat agree with you. But I bought the car for me. Started with a flawless as new platform, paid for the mods myself all done in the same shop and car runs beautifully. For my enjoyment. But if I were to sell the car id understand if the buyer was weary.. Most modded i6t cars are flogged. Mine is the rare exception, never ever raced, still under 8000km on the clock and only around 600-700km since mods (330rwkw). likely to be the cleanest most immaculate b series i6t in the country.. But any buyer would and should be weary just the same

The general rule of thumb is a modded xr6t = a trashed xr6t

[FPV_Steve]

Originally Posted by Nikko

Yep yep no worries, sounds like a pretty nice car. I'll certainly be keeping track if you want to pass her on at some point.

No worries! Good luck with your searching, these cars are bloody awesome. Just be patient.

[Dash_XR]

Originally Posted by Nikko

Yeah I'm aware that the auto is a better gearbox, much prefer driving a manual though as far as feel goes. I'm aware it's probably not the better choice but it's what I love

Auto is not better mate its just faster, manual is an awesome box and you'll never have to worry about milkshakes/weird electrical problems/expensive services/expensive rebuilds when you want more power etc.

Spend some time making sure the clutch isn't slipping or shuddering and that's about it. Plus the usual checks of course. Bionic Blue is probably the loudest colour the R-Specs came in I think.

[T4ME]

The manual needs a decent clutch so there's 2k there easy for one that wont come out again along with room to move.

Diff bushes flog out quicker in manual cars as do driveline components.

They both have their ups and downs really.

[raised by monkeys]

Originally Posted by T4ME

The manual needs a decent clutch so there's 2k there easy for one that wont come out again along with room to move.

Diff bushes flog out quicker in manual cars as do driveline components.

They both have their ups and downs really.

I thought the typhoon and tornado come with an twin plate AP racing clutch standard?

EDIT: yup

[Dash_XR]

They do, a good one could last for ages with say 300rwkw. My standard one did 100k then another 20k at 300 before it started slipping, only in high gears atm too.

[99AUXR]

Yea as I understand it like dash said 300rwkw would be a good mark. Personally if I was going past 300rwkw I would have some money ready for the clutch.

[raised by monkeys]

I have just bought my tornado mate and it has been at the mechanics. So far they have found it has a shot centre bearing and front brake discs/pads were worn. The car has 65000kms