Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by DJM83

So after some advice in here from DFB, and my detailer.
I purchased a kit from waxit.com
So a few weeks ago i used the NV snow on my mums Rukus. A car that hasnt had a heap of love but lives indoors.
Absolutely came up brilliant.
Missus purchased a 2022 Tuscan that had some dealer applied paint protection (wasnt actually too bad tbh) so easy to wash. Came up like brand new.
So today i washed my ute, for the first time since it had paint correction (details in posts a few pages ago)
Using the NV product to snow foam and wash, it was so bloody easy.
Water just falls off it. In fairness it hasnt driven much but so easy to clean.
No pics of any (i do but to lazy to upload)
But again thanks to DFB and my detailer very happy with what ive purchased thus far. But i can see this as the beginning of an empty wallet

Oh, trust me, your wallet will be frequently empty.....................

[DJM83]

Another rookie question.
Tonneau covers. Mines in pretty good condition, but id like to try and make it a little better. Id assume could use same kind of product as on a soft top car possibly.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by DJM83

Another rookie question.
Tonneau covers. Mines in pretty good condition, but id like to try and make it a little better. Id assume could use same kind of product as on a soft top car possibly.

Soft Tonneau's are basically treated as Vinyl rather than a fabric. As such, you are basically dressing them with a water-based product. Keep in mind that these will wash off over time. If the car is garaged and doesn't see much weather, then I would just use 303 Protectant, Carpro Perl or you could even try some Koch Chemie Top Star.

I do note 303 also have a combined cleaner/dressing for soft tops and tonneau's would be worth looking at too -

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...le-top-cleaner

[DJM83]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Soft Tonneau's are basically treated as Vinyl rather than a fabric. As such, you are basically dressing them with a water-based product. Keep in mind that these will wash off over time. If the car is garaged and doesn't see much weather, then I would just use 303 Protectant, Carpro Perl or you could even try some Koch Chemie Top Star.

I do note 303 also have a combined cleaner/dressing for soft tops and tonneau's would be worth looking at too -

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...le-top-cleaner

303 that's what I was, looking at.
I'll add it to my cart.
Yeah, it doesnt see much if any weather and is garaged so that'll work I think

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by DJM83

303 that's what I was, looking at.
I'll add it to my cart.
Yeah, it doesnt see much if any weather and is garaged so that'll work I think

There is the risk of the dressing you choose running a bit onto the paintwork. That really only happens when a car see's weather though. If you work it in and don't slather it on you will be fine.

[DFB FGXR6]

Errr, well............

[hackney]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Errr, well............

image

image

image

Don’t laugh, I have also polished my mower!Just to pass time, you understand of course.

[DJM83]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

There is the risk of the dressing you choose running a bit onto the paintwork. That really only happens when a car see's weather though. If you work it in and don't slather it on you will be fine.

That had happened to me not long ago, made the paint look like junk once it had run down the tub.
Wont happen again thats for sure.

[prydey]

Originally Posted by DJM83

303 that's what I was, looking at.
I'll add it to my cart.
Yeah, it doesnt see much if any weather and is garaged so that'll work I think

Supercheap do stock some of the 303 range. Not sure about autobarn/repco etc. Sometimes relying on Australia Post takes too long.

[GTP534]

Autobarn sell the 303 products. I've bought the Protectant there in the past, and last time got the Touchless Sealant from them. (Penrith NSW store)

[prydey]

Originally Posted by prydey

Had an epidural steroid injection 3 weeks ago and that hasn't worked so I have to be a bit more careful for a while. Spinal injuries can be so infuriating. Patience isn't something I'm good at when it's stopping me doing things I enjoy. No. 1 is cycling. Washing cars isn't no. 2 but it's toward the top of the list. At least I can enjoy it through other people's experiences on here.

Just venting again.

Sorry for off topic...

Having microdiscectomy (surgery) on the 14th of this month. Long slow recovery after but hopefully I can resume normal life for many years after.

In the meantime I think the cars will just get a snow job, rinse and blow dry.

I wonder if anyone does a decent wash sponge on a stick??

[FTE217]

ewwww that sucks for such a young fella prydey, no bike riding as well I expect.
Sorry to hear hope the surgery is successful.

[prydey]

Originally Posted by FTE217

ewwww that sucks for such a young fella prydey, no bike riding as well I expect.
Sorry to hear hope the surgery is successful.

Yeah, haven't ridden since feb sometime and no riding for at least 6 weeks after. Something they've learned is the healing process is critical to long term durability.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Sorry for off topic...

Having microdiscectomy (surgery) on the 14th of this month. Long slow recovery after but hopefully I can resume normal life for many years after.

In the meantime I think the cars will just get a snow job, rinse and blow dry.

I wonder if anyone does a decent wash sponge on a stick??

My first thought reading that was this -



Not that I am insinuating you have a weight control problem.

Seriously though, yes such a thing exists, although out of stock at the moment.

https://store.primefinish.com.au/col...ipole-full-kit



Take care, they will get you sorted.

[DFB FGXR6]

Tyre Cleaning 101.

There was a time when I could not see the reason or point in cleaning tyres. The pivot point for me was when I spotted a fellow forum member trying a new tyre dressing and his recommendation of cleaning the rubber well to ensure a proper bond.

That new product was Gyeon Q2 Tire. At the time, I did not have an appropriate tyre brush or tyre cleaner. My solution was some Meguiars APC and a household dustpan brush. Things have changed for me in that regard just a little.





It didn't take long for me to catch up though!

So why do detailer's clean tyres? The main reason is to remove tyre "Blooming". This is where antiozonant rises to the outer edge of the tyre casing. When this element comes into contact with oxygen, it leaves behind a brown residue on the surface. (Antiozonant helps tires last longer as it slows deterioration due to oxidation.) Removing this and other grime attached to the sidewall improves the look of the tyre. And because the rubber is clean, it accepts a dressing much better, both in terms application ease and durability.

My first dedicated tyre cleaner was another Gyeon product, Q2M Tire Cleaner, teamed with a Maxshine Tyre Brush.





The Gyeon Tire Cleaner was rubbish, the brush on the other hand brilliant.

There are a couple of things that make a good tyre cleaning brush; short, stiff bristles and an ergonomic design to make the process easier. There are many different takes on a brush like this.

This Gyeon brush looked promising when I ordered it, but I found it to be less ergonomic in use and had to be held in a certain way to work properly -

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...q2m-tyre-brush







This design seems to be popular, although I don't like the way the brush is angled, and it wouldn't really suit low profile tyres -



This is where the classic Tuff Shine / Maxshine brush comes in. It can be used for both high and low-profile tyres, the handle is perfectly sized and the bristles stiff to give good cleaning power. The best bit, these are very cheap and durable. Mine has been very well used and has held up brilliantly.

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...cleaning-brush





However, I recently got my hands on the new Detail Factory Tire Scrub Brush.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...06384a3d&_ss=r
https://carcareco.com.au/product/det...e-scrub-brush/
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...39784756379703











Compared to the similar looking Maxshine, the Detail Factory version has slightly longer and softer bristles. What that means is that it offers superior scrubbing, afforded by the brushes ability to conform to the sidewall. The rubberized handle makes it nicer to hold as well.











So, what chemicals can be used for cleaning tyres? As a very broad rule of thumb, a product that is very alkaline will be able to cut through the blooming and old dressings. For example, a heavy duty dilution of APC can be used. You can also get dedicated tyre cleaners, think Shine Supply Wise Guy, P&S Undressed and Carpro ReTyre -

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sh...y&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...t&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://carcareco.com.au/product/p-s...-wall-cleaner/

There are also combined wheel and tyre cleaners. Think Meguiars Non-Acid Wheel/Tyre Cleaner and P&S Brake Buster -

https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...SABEgKHc_D_BwE
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...18519528374329

In this case, I'm using Brake Buster undiluted for maximum cleaning power -





And here, I'm using P&S Undressed -







The goal here is continuing to clean the tyres until they no longer turn brown under agitation. Once the tyres are cleaned like this, they will take much less effort in the following washes. The result should be a clean, dry and matte looking sidewall -







If you have problems getting them truly clean like this, try using Stoners Tarminator. While this is a tar remover, it's exceptionally good at stripping any remaining residue. Spray the product into a towel and scrub aggressively.



You will now have a clean slate to start applying your chosen dressing.













Happy Tyre Cleaning........

[GTP534]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Nice work!

Spotting a few familar products on that shelf. Would like to hear your thoughts on the 303 Touchless and MultiX/

Hi DFB,

The 303 Touchless did the job alright but afterwards when I went to buff up the wheels before applying the tyre dressing I noticed I had some areas I hadn't cleaned properly. So I will let you know again after the next time I wash the car. (Have to improve my wheelwashing techniques!)

I diluted the MultiX 20:1 and used that to clean the engine bay and door jambs. They came up pretty good.

I was thinking of giving this car a ceramic coat but have decided to try various products instead and see how they go. I saw Sandro from Car Craft use the Scholl's on an Audi S1 (or RS1?) and as it was done by hand gave it a go.

Cheers

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by GTP534

Hi DFB,

The 303 Touchless did the job alright but afterwards when I went to buff up the wheels before applying the tyre dressing I noticed I had some areas I hadn't cleaned properly. So I will let you know again after the next time I wash the car. (Have to improve my wheelwashing techniques!)

I diluted the MultiX 20:1 and used that to clean the engine bay and door jambs. They came up pretty good.

I was thinking of giving this car a ceramic coat but have decided to try various products instead and see how they go. I saw Sandro from Car Craft use the Scholl's on an Audi S1 (or RS1?) and as it was done by hand gave it a go.

Cheers

That's my approach as well. If you are attending to the car regularly, a lack of a ceramic coating is not going to be the end of the world.

[JKL]

Hi everyone

Just after some advice on a fgx sedan the black trim which I would assume is plastic that runs along the roof from front to back near the doors, how do we keep this looking like new (which product to use?) without damaging the paint on either side?? Any help appreciated. Thanks

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by JKL

Hi everyone

Just after some advice on a fgx sedan the black trim which I would assume is plastic that runs along the roof from front to back near the doors, how do we keep this looking like new (which product to use?) without damaging the paint on either side?? Any help appreciated. Thanks

A couple of ways of dealing with this.

Firstly, ensure the trim is not stained by polish residue. Ideally, I would recommend Meguiar's M39 Heavy Duty Vinyl cleaner, however that is not retailed locally so you would need to order it from the USA.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M-39.../dp/B0000AY3SX

Also look at Megs M40, this is a combined cleaner and condition.

https://www.automegastore.com.au/meg...ditioner-473ml

Otherwise, a pencil eraser will also do the job, likewise a very strong APC solution. Either way, make sure the trim is then free of any residue before going to the next step using an IPA type product or even water.

Once clean, you can either dress it with an appropriate product or use a trim restorer. Keep in mind a dressing will only last a few wash cycles, a restorer months or years.

Dressing - I like 303 Protectant or Carpro Perl. These will leave this trim looking natural.
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/30...3&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...245a5be5&_ss=r

Restorers -

Look into a ceramic coating like Carpro DLUX -
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...x&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Solution Finish is also worth a look. This product has a dye in it to restore the colour and lock it in for a matte finish -
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-trim-restorer

I also don't mind Mothers Naturally Black -
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

With all of the restorer type products, I would be masking off those sections to avoid getting the product on the paint.

[prydey]

Had a couple of days of sunshine in Adelaide so despite my failing back I decided to give the Territory a wash. Just had to limit bending, so washing lower sections on my knees etc... Took over 3 hours just to wash it, which may be normal for some but not me.

I'd bought carpro reset during my last shop, as well as nv lustre and nv jet. I bought the last two in a kit which included nv clarify, but didn't bother with that step.

Hard to say if I noticed a big difference with the carpro reset but I was using nv snow so already a high bar. Maybe placebo but I did think the paint had a bit more depth afterward. Car was filthy. I snow foamed it with nv snow first and then bucket washed with the carpro reset. Any dirt came off easy and I was impressed with the ease at which pollen spots (bee poop) came off.

What I will say is, and it does mention this in the product description, carpro reset isn't great if you wash in the sunshine. I was aware of this so tried to work quickly but there were a few areas where I noticed while drying it had left run marks. These wiped off fine but just something to be aware of.

Leaving the car overnight, today I gave it a coating of nv lustre. I haven't hand applied anything for many years. I did give it a coating of bowdens wet dreams a while ago but that was spray on, squirt off. I wasn't sure how much to put on so just went by the instructions on the bottle. I didn't notice a massive difference if I'm honest. Obviously different to touch but thought I would have seen an obvious difference between treated and untreated areas. It did look better, don't get me wrong, and smoother. Maybe I was a bit shy with how much I used. I misted the whole section I did at a time but no hazing or anything after second wipe with fresh cloth.

Tomorrow I plan to give it a coat of nv jet. Lustre and jet go well together so looking forward to seeing how that will go.

[Bossxr8]

Originally Posted by JKL

Hi everyone

Just after some advice on a fgx sedan the black trim which I would assume is plastic that runs along the roof from front to back near the doors, how do we keep this looking like new (which product to use?) without damaging the paint on either side?? Any help appreciated. Thanks

I just use some mothers plastic trim restorer. I think that's what it called anyway. I think they have a few variations now like back to black etc. I figure it's black plastic so good enough.

[prydey]

Apologies for posting some pics more down the mediocre end of the spectrum. I didn't do any paint correction or anything. It's just washed with carpro reset and then a coating of nv lustre and then a coating of nv jet. I've never applied anything like these products before so just followed the directions. They seemed too simple, just spray on, wipe in and wipe off with a clean towel. I think it's come up ok myself with some reasonable reflections. I don't do it justice with the phone camera though.









The lustre said to use a damp cloth which I did, and it was incredibly easy to apply and then wipe off giving a nice smooth feel to the paint.
The jet didn't mention damp cloth and it was a lot harder to apply, with the cloth not really wanting to glide across the surface. I was generous with the amount I used to try to compensate but didn't make much difference. It buffed dry fine and the results look ok.

Would love to hear feedback on whether I can do something better in the future.

Cheers.

And yes I need to have a clean up in my carport...

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Apologies for posting some pics more down the mediocre end of the spectrum. I didn't do any paint correction or anything. It's just washed with carpro reset and then a coating of nv lustre and then a coating of nv jet. I've never applied anything like these products before so just followed the directions. They seemed too simple, just spray on, wipe in and wipe off with a clean towel. I think it's come up ok myself with some reasonable reflections. I don't do it justice with the phone camera though.

image

image

image

image

The lustre said to use a damp cloth which I did, and it was incredibly easy to apply and then wipe off giving a nice smooth feel to the paint.
The jet didn't mention damp cloth and it was a lot harder to apply, with the cloth not really wanting to glide across the surface. I was generous with the amount I used to try to compensate but didn't make much difference. It buffed dry fine and the results look ok.

Would love to hear feedback on whether I can do something better in the future.

Cheers.

And yes I need to have a clean up in my carport...

A couple of thoughts on Nova Lustre and Jet -

a) Just wait till you get the Territory wet again! Nova Jet is as close to ceramic coating as it gets for water behavior. I often use it to top an existing wax or sealant to ramp up the hydrophobic properties.

b) Out of the two, I prefer to use Jet on its own as I find it can be finicky when topping Lustre. That is odd because the two were developed in tandem. There will be some amount of rejection though after using an already slick product beforehand (Lustre).

c) Often, prevailing weather conditions can play a part in the application process, as in humidity and temperature.

d) Make sure you allow Lustre to cure for at least 2 hours before the application of Jet.

e) The moist towel for the Lustre application seems to me like a recent thing. Next time, try that with Jet as well.

f) I found with Jet that it's good to load up your towel with product before starting on the first few panels. I prime the towel or applicator with several sprays until the towel feels damp on your hand, then apply two or three sprays per panel. To me, it feels easier as you continue to move around the car and the towel gets more loaded with product, priming the towel mimics this from the beginning.

Overall, I think your results look great. I can see the gloss in that paint, and that is often hard to capture on a paint colour like that. I will also say, considering your poor back, good on you have my respect for pushing through the pain and getting the job done.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Bossxr8

I just use some mothers plastic trim restorer. I think that's what it called anyway. I think they have a few variations now like back to black etc. I figure it's black plastic so good enough.

I really like their Naturally Black aerosol.



Very easy application and apparently lasts up to 100 washes.

[prydey]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

A couple of thoughts on Nova Lustre and Jet -

a) Just wait till you get the Territory wet again! Nova Jet is as close to ceramic coating as it gets for water behavior. I often use it to top an existing wax or sealant to ramp up the hydrophobic properties.

b) Out of the two, I prefer to use Jet on its own as I find it can be finicky when topping Lustre. That is odd because the two were developed in tandem. There will be some amount of rejection though after using an already slick product beforehand (Lustre).

c) Often, prevailing weather conditions can play a part in the application process, as in humidity and temperature.

d) Make sure you allow Lustre to cure for at least 2 hours before the application of Jet.

e) The moist towel for the Lustre application seems to me like a recent thing. Next time, try that with Jet as well.

f) I found with Jet that it's good to load up your towel with product before starting on the first few panels. I prime the towel or applicator with several sprays until the towel feels damp on your hand, then apply two or three sprays per panel. To me, it feels easier as you continue to move around the car and the towel gets more loaded with product, priming the towel mimics this from the beginning.

Overall, I think your results look great. I can see the gloss in that paint, and that is often hard to capture on a paint colour like that. I will also say, considering your poor back, good on you have my respect for pushing through the pain and getting the job done.

Thanks. Firstly, I'm on some pretty heavy drugs so that was ok. I did it all mostly on my knees keeping my back as straight as I could. A bit tiring but got through it ok.

I did lustre yesterday and jet today so plenty of time between coats. I did pretty much everything you said.

Really wanted to get the car done before my surgery as I'll be pretty useless afterwards for a while. Glad I got it done and hopefully a snow foam and rinse off will keep it presentable in the coming months.

Thanks again.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Thanks. Firstly, I'm on some pretty heavy drugs so that was ok. I did it all mostly on my knees keeping my back as straight as I could. A bit tiring but got through it ok.

I did lustre yesterday and jet today so plenty of time between coats. I did pretty much everything you said.

Really wanted to get the car done before my surgery as I'll be pretty useless afterwards for a while. Glad I got it done and hopefully a snow foam and rinse off will keep it presentable in the coming months.

Thanks again.

I'm taking a guess here, you will be on either L.... or P......? Pain is a bastard, especially when countless doctors can't find what's causing it.

[prydey]

Lyrica 300mg morning and night
Palexia 100mg morning and night
Fenac 50mg 3x daily.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Lyrica 300mg morning and night
Palexia 100mg morning and night
Fenac 50mg 3x daily.

Thought so. Not good, but as I said, pain is a bit.h!

[fiestaz]

Ive had a bit of an oops today. Not too happy.

Was aiming for a bit of personal therapy with some detailing. All the wax and sealant got washed off the Focus in all the rain we’ve just had in Sydney. So decided to wash and use the claying rubber also before waxing and sealing again.

Whilst the claying rubber has made the paint smooth it looks to have potentially made the bad swirls the car already had significantly worse and mark the paint on creases and edges (such as wheel arches). Perhaps I didn’t lube up enough, maybe was not being careful enough.

I discovered this during waxing and am not happy. I completed the waxing but looks like I need to go over with some polish to try remove the marks at a minimum and re wax those spots again.

Therapy failed massively.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fiestaz

Ive had a bit of an oops today. Not too happy.

Was aiming for a bit of personal therapy with some detailing. All the wax and sealant got washed off the Focus in all the rain we’ve just had in Sydney. So decided to wash and use the claying rubber also before waxing and sealing again.

Whilst the claying rubber has made the paint smooth it looks to have potentially made the bad swirls the car already had significantly worse and mark the paint on creases and edges (such as wheel arches). Perhaps I didn’t lube up enough, maybe was not being careful enough.

I discovered this during waxing and am not happy. I completed the waxing but looks like I need to go over with some polish to try remove the marks at a minimum and re wax those spots again.

Therapy failed massively.

I think we have all been there, a detailing therapy session turning sour.

Using clay or clay like products, there is always the risk of introducing some paint marring. Don't be too hard on yourself, it can/does happen to us all.