LS-LV Focus Duratec-HE 2L Oil Change Thread

[IPCOlsen]

Disclaimer - I am not giving advice simply sharing some info and data I have collected during ownership of my Focus.

2010 2L Duratec Focus LVII auto

Summary – Some info not on this report but on previous reports


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Notes:
None of the oils used are the recommended viscosity or ford spec.

*1 – I was unsure if the oil would have the TBN to go 15K kms so I swapped out 1L to bump up the reserve.

This Fuchs oil is fairly exotic – Zinc free and the old formula had no moly, 2 typical anti-wear additives.

I swapped over to M1 due to uncertain availability of Fuchs and I had an issue with long standing oil separating.

I now use M1 EP 0W20 in the Duratec Focus, K24 CR-V and the Miami XR8 Sprint

From these samples both MC and M1 filters kept particle size low.

In my samples I've done for all my other cars, time on oil has had no adverse impact on oil condition.

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Last sample report:

[IPCOlsen]

Sorry the report didn't upload on the last post.

[mull072]

Hello all,
Does anyone know if CASTROL EDGE 5w-30 A3/B4 meets Ford WSS-M2C913-B specifications?
Castrol don’t suggest this oil.....Castrol suggest magnatec stop/start....

BUT...

....Supercheap Auto and Autobahn do suggest it can be used as an alternative to the magnatec.

Who should I believe?

[mull072]

Originally Posted by DeKa

This doesn't meet Ford's specs (M2C913-B or M2C913-C) for the Duratec-HE engine, even though it is 5W-30.

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/

Was happy to go with this^^^

[LaserLikeFocus]

The Focus is notoriously low. All I can say is that I recommend an oil pump.

So much easier than ramps, jack stands and wheel jacks.

Seriously though, if the car was but 1 inch higher, you could just get under it, like an old Laser.

In fact, the engine, particularly the oil pan, filter and sump plug is devilishly low. Just have a look at it!

A major source of frustration too is that wheel ramps, jack stands etc in Australia are sickeningly expensive. Have a look at US prices. Read them and weep!

I have seen the adjustable plastic ones in the US but the design has not been refined yet to perfection - once they get the pull away part to lock in the wheel on removal, they will be fantastic.

"Chris, I would strongly recommend to replace the plug with a new one once you get this off. Since it is rounded, it will be hard to take it out and more you try, it gets worst. Try with multi grip locking pliers if you have one."

That's an awful problem. I blame apprentices using goddamn rattle guns on everything. There are specified torque settings for a reason.

I used a bolt extractor socket head myself. My preference would be to replace with original OEM...but you know.

I went for a smart - O plug to start with and I don't like them that much. YOU JUST HAND TIGHTEN. The instructions on the packet are WRONG, WRONG, WRONG! You only need to hand tighten to about 8 nM (don't even bother measuring it) but the pack says 25 nM - the bolt head will break off. I should have left as is...

Now I have a second one installed and I extract oil save for the filter topside with a pump.

So my question is - what can you really get out with a drain topside or at the sump, with a flush or not, and is the only real way to get the engine truly clean again to either become a paranoid Yank and swap oil every 4800 km or tear down and rebuild?

[LaserLikeFocus]

Saw these ramps off of a Chris Fix video on YouTube.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...428645552839a1

I think they should have a better design against rollback but they're a big improvement on the metal buggers than move around, and they are too damn high for the Focus bodywork.

[IPCOlsen]

An update

2010 2L Duratec Focus LVII auto - 68,700kms
M1 EP 0W20 - 4yrs/17,808km




Driving Conditions: All city driving
Zero oil added over the 4yrs, stayed right on the full mark.

I live overseas from the car. Last oil change was 2018 with an original planned OCI of 2yrs. Due to travel restrictions in 2020-2022 I was unable to get back to do maintenance on the car. Luckily using a high reserve oil was able to extend safely past the usual milage and keep it going.

As the oil did reasonable mileage I flushed motor with spare oil I had on hand. Drained the oil, drained the old filter, reinstalled the old filter. Filled up with some new but old oil (Val Durablend). Ran the car for a few minutes as varying revs. Shut it down, drained the oil, removed the filter.

New prefilled oil filter installed.

Refilled with: Mobil 1 EP 0W20
Filter: M1-102 change
Schedule OCI: 2yrs

Before oil change:


New M1 after startup.

[ToyotaCorolla]

Originally Posted by LaserLikeFocus

The Focus is notoriously low. All I can say is that I recommend an oil pump.

So much easier than ramps, jack stands and wheel jacks.

Seriously though, if the car was but 1 inch higher, you could just get under it, like an old Laser.?

i just find a couple of bricks of solid concrete and drive it up the blocks

My friends recommedation, if you're adventurous, drive one side of the car up the kerb, oil change, drive it down on flat area, top it up