Common Problems with the AU??

[Dauphin]

If it's not a brake light bulb, then try the brake light switch behind the brake pedal. They are several dollars from Repco and make sure you get the right one (not the heavy duty taxi one as they have a spring that's too stiff or something).

[samsam]

cool ill give that a go tonight
so u know how to program a new keeless entry remote

[dusty86]

anyone hadany drama's with the whole cable pulling through the firewall, and is there any prevention? parts that wear first etc?

[Teflon Turbo]

i think for key reprgamming is put key in ignition, turn to accessories, press the demister button 3 time in quickly, then the system cycles, doors lock etc.. and that's it from memory??

[DW260]

A big issue that I recently had, and it's only applicable to those who own a manual V8, was the clutch cable rubbing through a power steering line.

Where the clutch cable passes over the rigid power steering lines (LH Lock transfer line) on the steering rack, had rubbed through to the metal sheath on the clutch cable, which in turn has rubbed through the rigid pipeline.

The pipeline is easy enough to get out providing you have access to car ramps. Pipeline will cost $27 from Ford. I however couldn't get one soon enough, so I had it silver-soldered at an engineering firm who while I was waiting also gave me a beer. Happy days and it only cost $20.

I checked the 6 cyl versions at the wreckers and the same pipelines are configured differently on the steering rack. So you guys are safe. I'm sorry I didn't get any photo's - I was too busy running around trying to find a fix.

[CYCO TROOPS]

Things my AU's given me trouble with:
Brake switch (changed)
Volume buttons never wanted to work (changed head unit so I dont have to worry bout this issue no more.)
Drivers side window. This thing goes sidewards, doesnt decide to shut, now the switch has decided to get stuck going down and have to hold it to put it back up. (problem still going, CBF with it.)
Other then that, yeh the wagons all sweet!

[EV1LXR8]

i have a prob with my lpg...
its a 5.0L and sometimes it backfires and blows a vacume hose out from behind the manifold causing it to run very rough (like its got a cam)the other end of the vacume goes into the passenger side front guard so i cant c where the problem is comming from.
it recently backfired and the hose blew off but i reconnected it and it is still running rough, im stumped on wat it could be, its only running rough on idle when you put your foot on the pedal it seems to be ok.

for a while the gas completly stopted working while i was driving it just splutterd and then cut out, so ran it on fuel for a while then ran gas about a week ago its now working but its still rough on idle.

can any one help me im gettin sick of it and i want the problem gone...

[jcto]

Ok I might as well weigh into this as well....I have had my AUII for 12 months and it has 134,000 kms, following are the issues I have/or am having with it........
1. Power Steering leak from back of pump $220.00
2. Alternator packed up (due to fluid leak from pump). Quick note...get your power steering leaks fixed asap. $524.00
3. Clock digits missing and no backlight $12.00
4. Warped discs.....yet to be fixed.
5. Radiator had a leak...will replace soon anyway.
6. Front right wheel clicking noise.....possibly hubs.
Thats about it so far', car goes very well and fuel economy is great for a 6. Seems everyone has had my issues so I am ver happy that its only been basic issues.

[wombat30x]

I have an AU I trayback which I have had for 4 years now...Not too many drama's

Leaking water pump o-ring-Replaced water pump

Leaking front crankshaft oil seal-replaced seal and fitted speedi sleeve to rear of balancer.

Leaking power steering hose-Fixed finally, I posted about this drama elsewhere on this forum..I still cant believe Ford fitted such a poxy setup.

Sagging hood lining-replaced by local trim shop..apparently when manufactured the cloth is barely long enough to fold over the moulding at the edges and this is where it comes away.

Broken rear axle studs-I have replaced almost all of these...I had new tyres fitted the other day and they broke the last two I have not replaced..I don't know the cause..I never overload the Ute or drive harshly.

Blown Intake Manifold gasket,caused by a faulty spark plug and the ensuing backfire-replaced gasket & plugs..The original plugs that were in it I got from the local Ford dealer they were nippon denso.I was told these plugs are prone to failure?..anyone comment?

[TE029]

A common fault i have found in my AUII and AUIII is the brake light switch packing it in..
Symptoms rear brake lights not working, easiest way to confirm get a mate to check the lights while you press the pedal with one hand and wiggle the switch with the other. (Look for the wires running into it at the top of the brake pedal.)
If the brake lights flicker on and off the switch is cactus,
New unit about $13.00 from repco and commonly kept in stock.
Easy enough to install yourself at home if you are the handy sort, only 1 retaining pin and 1 plug to unclip/clip once you have yourself wedged under the dash..

[azza11]

AU 1 wagon 4.0, brought with 99500 kays and now 139000 kays, have had car for 4 years, here is my prob list.
After 6 months, alternator shat on christmas day, racq tilt tray home and fixed following day for 235.
Servo in gear box went after 2 years 165 to fix
New battery 18 months ago.
Thats it, started modding 2 weeks ago.
Couple things that need fixing, slow driver side front electric window.
Brake shudder when going down the range.
Rack creaks occasionally
Central locking on drivers side not working.
Not bad for 4 years of ownership.
Mods so far
18" polished lip black centered cheetahs 235 and 245 tyres
Pacemakers, 2.5 single, triple flow muffler, 3" dump.
Next mods
3-4" lowered rear leafs, nolathane bushes in rear and either boge or bilstein lowered shocks.
AZZA

[stera]

Hi all,

There was a servicing tip post, that I thought was a sticky giving advise on suggested parts to service at 100,000kms, 120,000, etc.

Is anyone able to point me in the right direction please - PM preferable, so I dont lose the link?

Thanks!

[nev74]

hi all
new to the forums, id like to say this agreat read plenty of info helped me with a few things already.
do have a few other issues ;
1 alternator light comes on been like this for 12 months
2 oil light comes on, same again been like this for 12 months
3 my main problem is that the climate control dosent work . fans work speeds work lcd works but its neither cold or hot . i had the gas filled still no cold air , the heater sometimes produces hot air.
any info would be appreciated
thanks Nev

[redneb]

what problem would this be on my AU 1999 there is a light on the panel that looks like a sedan flashing continiously ,when i put the key in and is on on, three beeps are heard and then the sign flashes continiously

[tags84]

Originally Posted by TE029

A common fault i have found in my AUII and AUIII is the brake light switch packing it in..
Symptoms rear brake lights not working, easiest way to confirm get a mate to check the lights while you press the pedal with one hand and wiggle the switch with the other. (Look for the wires running into it at the top of the brake pedal.)
If the brake lights flicker on and off the switch is cactus,
New unit about $13.00 from repco and commonly kept in stock.
Easy enough to install yourself at home if you are the handy sort, only 1 retaining pin and 1 plug to unclip/clip once you have yourself wedged under the dash..

mate this happened to me 3 times in my EL that i owned for 12months! then i got my AU and 2 months later it happened in that so i bought 2 switches....... and a bloody of a thing to change, upside down the the foot well lol

[blackers10]

Aparently genuine last alot longer

[tbomb182]

hi i got a 2001 au II xr8 ute.

problems - leaking pwr steering pump + rack replaced rack
- rear brake abs sensor replaced it
- front brake shudder machined discs new pads
- trans oil pump and rear seal fixed
- exhaust leak from pacemaker headers fixed but still sounds hollow cant sort it out ! sux hardcore

[tags84]

Originally Posted by samsam

cool ill give that a go tonight
so u know how to program a new keeless entry remote

Hey mate, info on the remote is in ur operaters manual that's how I did it

[hey_you_falcon]

Originally Posted by redxm

AU3
78000km
Back door actuator dies, about $180 from ford. They dont make ones for AU anymore, you have to buy a BA one and a conversion harness
battery holder in remotes, 2 seconds with soldering iron
handbrake sqealing in reverse, adjusted at service time
Ive just noticed rust around the boot struts & I really need a carport as the paint on the spoiler is all bubbled

I had my AU Series One boot strut anchor points repaired 11 times! (all under warranty)

The factory had heaps of old ones in stock so only once the new ones come along did the problem get resolved.

Basically the problem was galvanic corrosion - dissimilar metals.

Some guys lose the top of the rear guard before the problem appears.

I use fish oil now as a safety measure throughout the boot area and the water channels.

[rosebush]

Originally Posted by sbutler

I had a ripper one day! the left window wouldn't work it was stuck down, so I rang FTe service and the guy said, "get this" press the window switch up & down 31 yes 31 times, that will fix it!!! yeah right :1: anyway I did this, and bugger me on the 31st time the bloody thing worked!! : Beats the hell outta me. I dont know if anyone else has had this..

Looks like this is a real problem then in the falcons...first time I just cleaned the contacts and it worked well ever since, now the other window does it too and I just give it a punch or open the door and shut it and it works again. Another thing is use the other button on the other side to get it working again...but punching it is hard especially when your on the drivers side and its the passangers side that wont close and its starting to down....

[blackers10]

yes they are a pain!

also check your rear doors I noticed on my now mangled fairlane.. that the door on the inside at the top where the window sill is has completely rusted out where the trim sits(the bit up against the window)

mine also has rust in the rear right corner in the reinforced section under the tail light (took it out and it was lookin at me)

[rosebush]

Originally Posted by Dauphin

If it's not a brake light bulb, then try the brake light switch behind the brake pedal. They are several dollars from Repco and make sure you get the right one (not the heavy duty taxi one as they have a spring that's too stiff or something).

my brake switch that sits behind the peddle has been replaced 3 times in past 2 yrs, however only takes a few mins to fit and only about $10-$15

[blackers10]

get a genuine one if the cheapy keeps dieing

[frd906]

3 door actuators on the drivers side in the past couple of months, light bulbs, keeps on going

[jrh001]

Edit:

Sorry... just found another thread ("Another victim, need some expert advice") that deals with this topic.

JH

[alig]

Hi guys i desperately need help whith my au. All of a suden my car started to heat up it had coolant (nulon) inside. just before that heater was not blowing hot air .I took it to the mechanic and he changed radiator and thermostat, flush the car number of times, now heater does blow hot air but engine heats up when car is reved up for 2000 over 2 to 3 seconds thats only when there is coolant inside. if i take coolant out and just use water it fine. fans are also kiking in at high and low speed as required.

[jrh001]

Originally Posted by alig

...I took it to the mechanic and he changed radiator and thermostat, flush the car number of times, now heater does blow hot air but engine heats up when car is reved up for 2000 over 2 to 3 seconds thats only when there is coolant inside. if i take coolant out and just use water it fine. fans are also kiking in at high and low speed as required.

?faulty water temperature sensor (just a guess).

JH

[jrh001]

just had another thought...

Are you diluting the Nulon correctly?

JH

[urbancowboy]

Bought my AU2 XR8 manual, narooma blue 2 months ago,

these are my probs and fixes so far

1. PROB. LHF door wouldnt lock (5min's after buying it! grrr)
1. FIX. New door lock actuator

2. PROB. LHR window wouldnt go up ( 3rd day i owned it)
2. FIX1. Pull out all switches clean and relube then, lube the window rubbers
2. FIX2. Played up again yesterday, bought all ne switches for every door, fix it for once and for good.

3. Prob. Loosing water,
3. Fix. Replace heater valve ( still needs new radiator but not badly)

4. Prob. Steering rack leaking Power steering connector leaking
4. Fix. Replace with reco'd unit. Replace connector. ( hose is much dearer)

5. Prob. Clutch starting to slip
5. Fix. Not yet but im getting a new HD exedy clutch and a alloy flywheel and a rip shifter all at once.

OTHER WEIRD THINGS

Car wouldnt unlock with smart key two weeks ago on a really hot day, but after a bit of perserverence it opened with the key.

Airbag light was intermitently lighting on the dash, today has decided to stay on. Should i be concerned the airbag could go off in my face at any moment????

Needs service is overdue, will be fitting NGK irridium plugs, Topgun 8.8mm leads, K&N panel filter, Gates timing belt & new idler pully( which is starting to squeek.

Front has a squeek which is related to the LHF wheel, its intermittent, doesnt go away when brakes are applied, doesnt feel like a wheel bearing! has me stuffed!

Brakes Squeek like a mofo! mainly the fronts, Stops like hell, could just be perf pads? havnt even had time to suss it out properly,

Any light shed on these final few issues would be appreciated.

[whiskers]

urban cowboy put the last of your post part here http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdi...ysprune=&f=241 you will get more answers to your questions. but about the air bag if the light is staying on it needs to be checked out I think.

cheers