Fuel Pump Replacement How To

[Whoosha]

As I have just spent most of the past few weekends figuring out why #2 sons SR splutters and stops for no reason in the heat We have moved on to the fuel pump (having done plugs.leads,coilpack,fuel filter,ext) so I thought why not another how to :Reverend: this can also be used to spin your Fuel sock around to help prevent surging, (Note; this car was purchased new and has 170 ks on it, and all servicing has been by Ford or in house) This thread is just a guide to help others that may wish to try it for them selves, and is just how I did, it be it the rite or wrong way it worked for me.
First it is a good idea to have little or next to no fuel in the tank (although no essential ). Tools Needed will be Pointy nosed pliers, 7mm open end /ring spanner, 2 medium blade screwdrivers, 1 flat bar or screwdriver.
If replacement of the pump is needed I purchase mine of Ebay from a Deerpark supplier for $50 + postage took 4 days to deliver it Came complete with all fittings in kit form, and for what it's worth looks no different to the original

1. remove boot mat and on the left / passengers side floor is a flat round disk that covers the pump this is stuck to the floor with sicaflec type stuff and needs to be pryed off, (don't worry if it bends a bit you can easily tap it flat again with a hammer

2.With the cover removed, unplug the wiring, at this stage I opened the fuel cap to release any pressure in side it. the fuel lines now need removing from the top of the tank this can be done by gently squeezing the clips at the side together a levering the inside with a small blade screw driver whist sliding back at the same time (easyer than it sounds really : )
Note; some fuel may still be under pressure and a small amount my leak out so keep a few rags handy.


.

Now with the lines removed you should be able to see a 5" hose clamp securing the lid this is best removed with a 7mm ring spanner as a screw driver wont fit in the hole, unless you have a flexi drive

Now at this stage I vacuumed any loose dirt and gunk from around the cap to avoid it falling into the tank
Next part becomes a bit tricky as you have plastic screwed into plastic which tends to bind up ,it has been suggest that if you loosen the tank straps both sides about 1/3 of the way it will help to stop the distortion of the tank. as I only found this out later I haven't tried it out,Now if you don"t have the proper removal tool to unscrew the cap this is what I did. with the lines and hose clamp removed I levered around the outer edge of the cap with a large screwdriver against the body of the floor as you move it round the lid you can see the cap flex thus appearing to loosen and more gunk build up then re vacuumed the hole.

Next with one medium blade screwdriver on each side of the cap in the slots that can be seen in the lid , push then in so they sit fairly securely , then with a 3rd larger screw driver or flat bar as near to the base as practical twisted the cap anti clockwise ( to the passengers side for those with digital clocks :togo: )

with the cap now removed the unit can be removed completely

Good idea to put the plate back over the hole while you mess with the pump to


My guess is it is not supposed to be coated with black sludge

:
The disassembly / reassembly of the pump and components is fairly straight forward as all the bits are there already, at this point time to check if your fuel sock is facing to the rear of the car (this how this S3 SR came out of the tank My S2 was facing forward ) the new pump sock only clipped in to the rear the OM could clip in either way
with the new pump fitted to the unit replacement is the reverse of the removal with just a few tips to help
1. a finger full of Vaseline jelly around the thread on the lid made it easyer to tighten
2. make sure the O ring is in position on the inside of the unit and sits flush
3. the complete unit sits flush when back in the correct position , you may need to turn it to the left or right slightly as the in and out pipe do not sit square to the front of the car. then just Silastic the cover back down an your done.
Once again this is just a guide on how I did it ,it may not be text book but it worked for me and I would think any one else with a basic mechanical knowledge
Cheers Whoosha

[GK]

Nice one Whoosha!

I hope it ends the hassles your son has had with the AU.

GK

[ThePistonHead]

Fantastic how to.

I assume this would be very similar if not the same to the EF pump? Does anyone know if that hose clamp would be the same in an EF?

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by GK

Nice one Whoosha!

I hope it ends the hassles your son has had with the AU.

GK

You and me both : but there is one more thing left that Leeroy has come across so may have to give it a try, that relates to ware the fuel lines pass through the fire wall they appear to sit next to the heater hoses and can get fairly hot and may cause evaporation in the lines

[Mr Hardware]

Very good writeup whoosha. I'm always amazed at the excellent things ford do that holden do not, ie to change a fuel pump in a commodore, you better have an empty tank! And if you don't have a hoist, forget about it!

[au11futura]

nice write up mate.

[RG]

Nice write up there Whoosh, pretty much the same way I do mine.

WTF is with that fuel sock?!?!?!?!? Last I checked they weren't black!

[mik]

i`ve been threataning to do this on mine, but motorvation has`nt been there(hey i`m old...... : ) , i see how easy it is now, good job Whoosha.

[ronwest]

Thanks mate; I'll be doing this before our next trip away.

edit: I notice you don't need the big furry helper with this one. That will make it a bit easier for the rest of us ;)

[Beer Baron]

Rotating the sock helps prevent surging ?

Facing the rear is better than forward ?

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by Beer Baron

Rotating the sock helps prevent surging ?

Facing the rear is better than forward ?

Most of the early AUs suffered fuel surge when the fuel level got below 1/4 of a tank ussually when cornering hard or quick take offs ,most prominently at track and drag days.Fords explanation of this was as the pickup, sock faces forward (to the front of the car) the fuel would run to rear thus creating the surge problem, the dealership fix was to spin the pickup point around 180' : Note; this was a "FORD FIX" go figure it seems to work

[Hords]

Great write up Whoosh. Was the 180 a recall? My series 1 has 350 K and never a surge problem. It does have 3 recall stickers inside the driver's door frame.

If you havn't done so already, get one of the mods to edit into the 'how to' thread.

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by Hords

Great write up Whoosh. Was the 180 a recall? My series 1 has 350 K and never a surge problem. It does have 3 recall stickers inside the driver's door frame.

If you havn't done so already, get one of the mods to edit into the 'how to' thread.

Not sure if it was a recall as such a few of the better dealerships just did it as part of the factory service, mine came with the 3 year 60000k free service , It may have been the one to end that deal :

[Beer Baron]

Originally Posted by Whoosha

Most of the early AUs suffered fuel surge when the fuel level got below 1/4 of a tank ussually when cornering hard or quick take offs ,most prominently at track and drag days.Fords explanation of this was as the pickup, sock faces forward (to the front of the car) the fuel would run to rear thus creating the surge problem, the dealership fix was to spin the pickup point around 180' : Note; this was a "FORD FIX" go figure it seems to work

Mine is a series 2 and it surges if i corner hard with less than 1/3 full, Only on corners though. I will have rotate it soon.

Beer Baron.

[auIILTD]

Nice work Woosha. It is great to see someone going to the effort to document their work and sharing it with others.

I had a similar problem with my 2002 LTD. Under warranty, Ford dealers were looking at the electrical / computer issues, but could not replicate the problem, let alone fix it. The key for me is that I could replicate the surge with 1/4 tank or less, take it to a Ford dealer and nothing would show up on the computer diagnostics.

I finally made the 1000Km trip to the dealer that I bought it from - keeping the tank above 3/4 as not to give me grief on the way. When I got to the dealer I had let the tank run down to under 1/4 of a tank. I replicated the problem for the Ford 'Technician' with predictable reliability.

What they found was that the pump was 'self destructing'. My second fuel filter was full of black gunk within 2500 KM. I can only assume that the 'black gunk' was rubber from within the fuel pump. Fuel pump was replaced and so all is now good - touch wood.

A couple of tips from my experience - check your fuel filter now that you have replaced your son's pump. I also have an after market workshop manual for the AU range - it advises to loosen the bands holding the tank in place to avoid distortion and not allowing you to get the new pump in.

Well done - keep up the good work. As I work more on my car (now out of dealer warranty), I will try and document as well for the benefit of other members.

[luckykar]

Great write up mate , it certainly helps others out who are wondering how to go about fixing these problems. Makes it so much easier to do things when you have a great how to like this...thanks Whoosha

[AU_Wagin]

You are lucky you dont have a wagon. Having almost zero fuel in the tank is a must. The full tank has to be lowered and is a pain in the ****! Three Fuel later - I should know

I didnt no abou the sock, I must ahve a look at one of the removed ones I have saved

Ray

[Aublokes]

Woosh, Ive got a 6cyl 99 au ute that just dies on you after driving for a while on a hot day, I need to wait 15-20 mins for it to cool off or reset or whatever before I can start up again. Is that the same problem you were having and did the fuel pump replacement or the fuel line near the heater hose fix the problem? cheers.

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by Aublokes

Woosh, Ive got a 6cyl 99 au ute that just dies on you after driving for a while on a hot day, I need to wait 15-20 mins for it to cool off or reset or whatever before I can start up again. Is that the same problem you were having and did the fuel pump replacement or the fuel line near the heater hose fix the problem? cheers.

Sounds the same, the pump and sock were clogged solid with gunk. it has been fine ever since .

[whiskers]

thanks woosha for this info, I know I know thread mining lol

I just used this to change my fuel pump, I couldn't find this info on the forums straight up although there is a link for fuel pumps and filters but it takes you else where, I ended up doing a google search.

thanks again job well done

[Whoosha]

Should be linked up in the top of Use full threads in the "How Too s" Mite have to add a bit more to the heading

[kayyan]

Hi Whoosha
Below is the symptom of my AU ii Faclon's problem. Someone suggested it seems similiar to the problem of your #2 son's car. Could you have a look and give me some advice. Thanks, Kayyan

''My 2001 AU ii with mileage 350000 has a system cut up problem whcih can't be identified by my electrician and mechanics. Sometimes it suddenly stops on the road and I can restart the car srtaight away after that. The problem happens at low speed such as 30 to 40 km/hr. And it happened when car was idling once.

My electrician scanned the car and found no relavant code. He guessed from experience that ''crank angle sensor'' is likely to be the problem and changed it on Dec 2013. I drive the car for around 2000 km since then and the problem come back again. Same electrician inspected and scanned the car again and still could not find out what's wrong, ie no relavant code turned up. He cleaned up throttel body as well although it is perfectly clean.

Nb My mechanics inspected the car before my electrican changed crank angle sensor last Dec and found no relevant mechanical fault re the problem as well.''

[TeamSAXON]

Thanks so much for this write up. It helped me get over some of my fear of working on my car and I replaced the old fuel pump with a GOSS pump. I believe the old one was fine apart from the fuel sender unit which looks bad - hopefully this new assembly will fix my inaccurate fuel level on the cluster.